The Ultimate Guide to Overlockers

Everything You Need to Know Before You Buy

Thinking about buying an overlocker but not sure where to start? You're not alone.

For many sewists, an overlocker is the next machine they consider after buying a sewing machine. It's often described as a "game changer" (although we'd simply call it an incredibly useful addition to your sewing room!), yet many people are unsure exactly what an overlocker does, whether they really need one, or why some machines cost a few hundred pounds while others are several thousand.

At Sew Centre, we help thousands of customers choose overlockers every year, both in our showroom near Ripon, North Yorkshire, and at sewing shows across the UK. The questions we hear are often the same:

• Do I really need an overlocker?
• Can I still quilt if I buy one?
• What's the difference between Bernina, Janome and Baby Lock?
• Is air threading worth paying extra for?
• Why would I choose a machine with chainstitch or coverstitch?

What is an Overlocker?

An overlocker is a specialist machine designed to trim the fabric edge, stitch the seam and finish the raw edge, all in one operation.

Unlike a conventional sewing machine, which uses a needle and bobbin to create stitches, an overlocker uses multiple threads and loopers to wrap thread around the edge of the fabric while a built-in knife trims away the excess. The result is a strong, neat seam that resists fraying and looks similar to the finish you'd find inside professionally manufactured clothing.

Modern overlockers can sew at speeds of up to 1,500 stitches per minute, making them ideal for anyone who enjoys garment making, quilting, home décor or producing handmade items to sell.

While an overlocker won't replace your sewing machine, it works alongside it perfectly. Most sewists who own both wonder how they ever managed without one.

Sewing Machine vs Overlocker

One of the most common questions we hear is, "If I buy an overlocker, will I still need my sewing machine?"

The answer is yes.

Although both machines sew fabric together, they're designed for different jobs and complement one another beautifully.

Think of your sewing machine as the all-rounder. It handles everything from zips and buttonholes to quilting and decorative stitching.

Your overlocker specialises in constructing seams quickly, finishing raw edges beautifully and producing strong, stretchy seams on knit fabrics.

For many projects, particularly clothing, the two machines are used together.

What Can You Do with an Overlocker?

Although overlockers are best known for dressmaking, they're surprisingly versatile machines.

Whether you enjoy making clothes, quilting, home décor projects or bags, an overlocker can save time while giving your work a beautifully finished appearance.

Some of the many things you can do with an overlocker include:

• Construct garments quickly with strong, professional seams.
• Sew jersey, sweatshirt fabric, interlock and other stretch fabrics with ease.
• Finish raw fabric edges to prevent fraying.
• Produce decorative rolled hems for scarves, napkins and lightweight fabrics.
• Sew flatlock seams for sportswear and decorative projects.
• Gather fabric for ruffles, skirts and children's clothing.
• Make cushions, table runners, curtains and other home décor projects.
• Create durable seams for bags and accessories.
• Finish appliqué pieces before stitching them in place.
• Neaten quilt backing fabrics before loading them onto a longarm quilting machine.
• Join quilt backing fabrics using a chainstitch (on machines that offer this feature).
• Prepare fabrics before washing to minimise fraying.
• Sew quickly and efficiently when making multiple items.

Because an overlocker trims, stitches and finishes the edge all at the same time, many sewing jobs are completed much faster than they would be on a conventional sewing machine.

Who is an Overlocker For?

Many people assume overlockers are only useful if you make clothes.

While garment makers certainly get enormous benefit from them, they're equally useful for many other types of sewing.

Dressmakers

If you regularly make clothing, an overlocker is one of the best investments you can make. It creates strong, flexible seams, gives garments a professional finish and dramatically speeds up construction.

Stretch fabrics such as jersey, French terry and sweatshirt fabric become much easier to sew, producing seams that move with the fabric without snapping.

Quilters

Although a sewing machine remains the primary tool for piecing quilts, many quilters find an overlocker invaluable.

It can be used to neaten quilt backing fabrics before quilting, prepare fabrics before washing, construct quilted cushions and bags, finish table runners and create beautifully finished home décor projects.

Machines that include a chainstitch function are particularly useful for joining quilt backing fabrics quickly and securely.

Home Décor Makers

Whether you're sewing curtains, cushions, table linens or soft furnishings, an overlocker creates durable seams with neat professional edges while reducing the time spent finishing projects.

Bag Makers

Bags are designed to be used, carried and filled, so strong seams are essential.

An overlocker provides durable seam finishes and helps create tidy linings that look just as good inside the bag as they do on the outside.

Small Creative Businesses

If you make clothing, accessories or home décor items to sell, an overlocker can significantly increase production speed while ensuring every item has a consistent, professional finish.

Understanding Overlocker Stitches

One of the biggest differences between entry-level and premium overlockers is the range of stitches they can produce.

Basic machines concentrate on the essential overlocking stitches that most sewists need every day. Premium models add chainstitch, coverstitch and combination stitches, opening up even more creative possibilities.

Understanding these stitches also helps explain why some machines offer so much more versatility than others.

3 Thread Overlock

The 3 thread overlock is mainly used to finish raw fabric edges.

It creates a neat, lightweight edge that prevents fraying without adding unnecessary bulk, making it ideal for woven cottons, linens and lighter fabrics.

If you've already sewn a seam on your sewing machine, a 3 thread overlock is perfect for tidying the raw edges afterwards.

4 Thread Overlock

The 4 thread overlock is the stitch most overlocker owners use every day.

It joins the fabric together while simultaneously finishing the edge, creating a strong, flexible seam that's ideal for jersey, knit fabrics, activewear and children's clothing.

For many dressmakers, this is the default stitch used for garment construction.

Rolled Hem

A rolled hem wraps the edge of the fabric completely in thread to create a narrow, decorative finish.

It's perfect for lightweight scarves, napkins, chiffon garments, dancewear, ruffles, decorative edging and heirloom sewing.

Most modern overlockers can produce beautiful rolled hems with just a few simple adjustments.

Flatlock Stitch

Flatlock stitching creates a decorative seam that lies almost completely flat.

It is often used for sportswear, decorative garment details, heirloom sewing and patchwork, where the visible ladder effect can become part of the design itself.

Chainstitch

Chainstitch is one of the features that distinguishes premium overlockers and combination machines from basic models.

Unlike a conventional sewing machine, which forms stitches by locking a top thread with a bobbin thread underneath, a chainstitch uses a looper to create a chain of interlocking loops on the underside of the fabric.

The result is a stitch that is incredibly strong while retaining a degree of flexibility.

Chainstitch is particularly useful for:

• Joining quilt backing fabrics.
• Decorative topstitching.
• Long seams on garments.
• Home décor projects.
• Basting seams before making final adjustments.
• Sewing heavier fabrics where strength is important.

Many experienced sewists appreciate chainstitch because it's fast, strong and economical, especially when sewing long continuous seams.

Coverstitch

Although technically different from an overlock stitch, many premium combination machines include both overlock and coverstitch functions.

Coverstitch creates the professional hems seen on T-shirts, sweatshirts, leggings and sportswear.

From the front, you'll see two or three perfectly parallel rows of stitching. Turn the fabric over and you'll find a stretchy looper stitch that allows the hem to stretch without the thread breaking.

If you regularly sew knit garments, a coverstitch gives your projects the same polished finish you'd expect to see on ready-to-wear clothing.

Combination Stitches

Luxury machines such as the Bernina L 890 combine chainstitch and overlocking in a single operation.

This produces exceptionally strong seams with beautifully finished edges and is particularly useful for garments, workwear and projects where durability is essential.

Bernina L 660 Overlocker

£1,795.00

The Bernina L 660 Overlocker brings together Swiss engineering and modern features to make overlocking more accessible for sewers at different skill levels. This machine stands out with its One-Step Air Threader. It uses air pressure to thread the loopers… read more

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Part 2 - Choosing the Right Overlocker

Now that you understand what an overlocker does and the different stitches it can produce, it's time to look at the features that separate one machine from another.

At first glance, many overlockers look remarkably similar, but the differences become obvious once you start using them. Some machines are designed to be simple and affordable for beginners, while others are engineered to make sewing quicker, easier and more enjoyable for those who spend many hours at their machine.

The best overlocker isn't necessarily the most expensive, it's the one that best suits the projects you enjoy and the way you like to sew.

What Should You Look for When Buying an Overlocker?

• Ease of Threading

If there's one thing that has put people off overlockers over the years, it's threading.

Older machines could seem complicated, with four separate threads following different paths through the machine. While that reputation has lingered, modern overlockers are much easier to thread than many people expect.

Entry-level machines such as the Janome 9300DX use clearly colour-coded threading guides, making the process straightforward once you've done it a few times.

Premium machines take things a step further.

The Baby Lock Enlighten, Baby Lock Acclaim, Bernina L860 and Bernina L890 all feature air-threading systems for the loopers. Instead of carefully guiding thread through tiny holes, a blast of air carries the thread through the machine in seconds.

If you regularly change thread colours, perhaps for quilting or decorative sewing, this feature alone can save a surprising amount of time.

Tip: Don't let threading put you off buying an overlocker. Most customers find that after threading the machine a few times, it quickly becomes second nature.

Differential Feed

Differential feed is one of the most important features on any overlocker.

Instead of one set of feed dogs moving the fabric, an overlocker has two sets that can work at different speeds.

Why is that useful?

When sewing jersey or knit fabrics, it prevents the fabric stretching out of shape and stops wavy seams from appearing.

On lightweight woven fabrics, it helps eliminate puckering.

It can even be adjusted deliberately to create beautiful gathers for children's clothing, ruffles and decorative projects.

Whatever type of sewing you enjoy, differential feed is a feature you'll use far more often than you might expect.

Stitch Variety

Most overlockers offer 3 and 4 thread stitches, which are more than enough for the majority of sewing projects.

As you move into premium machines you'll find additional stitch options, including:

• 2 thread stitches
• Flatlock stitches
• Rolled hems
• Chainstitch
• Coverstitch
• Combination stitches

If you're mainly making garments, 3 and 4 thread stitches may be all you ever need.

If you regularly sew jersey clothing, activewear or want professional-looking hems, a machine with coverstitch capability could be worth the investment.

Speed

One of the first things you'll notice when using an overlocker is just how quickly it sews.

Many machines stitch at between 1,300 and 1,500 stitches per minute, allowing garments to come together remarkably quickly.

While maximum speed sounds impressive, what really matters is how well the machine remains controlled at slower speeds, particularly when sewing curves or delicate fabrics.

Premium machines tend to offer smoother, more controllable operation across the entire speed range.

Knife System

Every overlocker includes a knife that trims away excess fabric as you sew.

A good knife produces clean, accurate edges that improve the quality of your finished seam.

Many machines also allow the knife to be disengaged, which is particularly useful when decorative stitching or techniques that don't require trimming the fabric edge.

Lighting

Good lighting is often overlooked until you've experienced it.

Bright LED lighting makes threading easier, improves visibility on dark fabrics and reduces eye strain during long sewing sessions.

Adjustable Presser Foot Pressure

Not every fabric behaves the same.

Being able to adjust the pressure applied by the presser foot allows the machine to handle everything from delicate silks through to heavier sweatshirt fabric more consistently.

Waste Collector

Trimming fabric creates a surprising amount of waste.

Many overlockers offer an optional waste collector that neatly catches fabric trimmings before they end up across your sewing table or floor.

It's a simple accessory that many owners quickly decide they wouldn't want to be without.

Extension Tables

If you regularly sew larger projects such as quilts, table runners or home décor items, an extension table can provide valuable extra support.

Although overlockers generally don't need as much working space as sewing machines, the additional surface can make handling larger pieces of fabric much more comfortable.

Build Quality

An overlocker is an investment that many sewists expect to enjoy for years.

Higher-end machines often feature smoother controls, quieter operation, lower vibration levels and exceptional stitch consistency, particularly when sewing for long periods.

While beginners don't necessarily need the most expensive machine, regular sewists often appreciate these refinements every time they sit down to sew.

Best Overlockers for Beginners

Janome 9300DX

If you're buying your first overlocker, the Janome 9300DX is an excellent place to start.

Designed to be straightforward to use while producing reliable, professional-looking results, it offers outstanding value for anyone beginning their overlocking journey.

Its colour-coded threading guides make setup easy to follow, while differential feed helps produce smooth seams on everything from woven cottons to stretchy jersey fabrics.

The built-in rolled hem function also allows you to create delicate decorative finishes without complicated adjustments.

Key features include:

• 3 and 4 thread overlocking
• Colour-coded threading
• Differential feed
• Adjustable stitch length
• Adjustable cutting width
• Built-in rolled hem conversion
• Bright LED lighting

Whether you're making clothing, soft furnishings or craft projects, the Janome 9300DX is a dependable machine that will continue to serve you well as your sewing skills develop.

Janome 9300DX

£349.00

The 9300DX is a superb introductory level overlocker offering great value for money. Whilst it is easy to use, it comes with an instructional DVD to explain the wide range of stitch option. The Janome 9300DX packs an impressive range… read more

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Best Mid-Range Overlockers

Janome ML654D

The Janome ML654D has earned an excellent reputation as one of the most dependable mid-range overlockers available.

Offering beautifully balanced stitch quality, straightforward controls and reliable performance, it's a natural step up for sewists who have outgrown an entry-level machine.

Its smooth handling across a wide range of fabrics makes it particularly popular with regular dressmakers.

Janome ML654D Overlocker

£499.00 £579.00

The Janome MyLock 654D is a 2/3/4-thread overlocker designed for fast, professional-quality sewing. It has a strong, low-vibration design and precise stitch control. This makes it good for everyday garment finishing and special fabric work. Equipped with user-friendly threading and… read more

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Bernina L460

The Bernina L460 brings Swiss precision engineering into a mechanical overlocker.

One of its standout features is the Free Hand System (FHS), allowing you to raise and lower the presser foot using a knee lifter, leaving both hands free to guide your fabric.

Combined with Bernina's Micro Thread Control, outstanding stitch quality and beautifully smooth operation, it's a favourite with experienced sewists looking for exceptional precision.

Tip: If you spend several hours sewing each week, the smoother handling and extra control offered by premium machines quickly become noticeable. It's often these refinements, rather than additional stitches, that owners appreciate most over time.

Bernina L460 Overlocker

£795.00

… read more

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Premium Overlockers

For sewists who spend a lot of time at their machine, premium overlockers offer more than just additional features. They are designed to make sewing smoother, quicker and more enjoyable, while delivering exceptional stitch quality across a huge range of fabrics.

If you regularly make garments, enjoy trying new techniques or simply appreciate beautifully engineered machines, stepping up to a premium overlocker can make a noticeable difference every time you sew.

Baby Lock Enlighten

The Baby Lock Enlighten has become one of the most popular premium overlockers thanks to its combination of innovative technology and effortless operation.

Its standout feature is the Jet-Air Threading™ system, which threads both loopers using a simple blast of air. Instead of guiding thread through tiny holes, the machine does the hard work for you, making threading remarkably quick and straightforward.

Baby Lock's Automatic Thread Delivery™ system is equally impressive, automatically delivering the correct amount of thread for each stitch. This greatly reduces the need for manual tension adjustments, allowing you to concentrate on your sewing rather than fine-tuning the machine.

The Enlighten is particularly well suited to sewists who regularly change thread colours, work with a wide variety of fabrics or simply want an overlocker that is incredibly easy to use.

Ideal for:

• Regular garment makers
• Quilters who frequently change thread colours
• Sewists looking for effortless threading
• Anyone wanting premium performance without unnecessary complexity

Baby Lock Enlighten Overlocker

£1,695.00

The user-friendly overlocker featuring the decorative wave stitch. Naturally, it includes the innovative NEW jet-air threading system and automatic thread delivery system. Do you have a special vision in mind? Let the baby lock enlighten immerse you in a world… read more

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Baby Lock Acclaim

Building on everything that makes the Enlighten so popular, the Baby Lock Acclaim introduces RevolutionAir™ Threading, making both the loopers and needles faster and easier to thread than ever before.

Combined with Automatic Thread Delivery™, it removes much of the setup traditionally associated with overlockers.

The result is a machine that feels incredibly intuitive to use, allowing you to spend less time preparing and more time sewing.

Whether you're creating sportswear, children's clothing, home décor or decorative projects, the Acclaim produces consistently beautiful stitches while handling a wide variety of fabrics with confidence.

Ideal for:

• Frequent sewists
• Dressmakers producing large numbers of garments
• Sewists who regularly change thread colours
• Anyone wanting the easiest threading experience available

Tip: If you dread changing thread colours, it's well worth trying an air-threading machine. Many customers tell us it's the feature they didn't think they needed until they experienced it for themselves.

Baby Lock Acclaim Overlocker

£2,095.00

Baby Lock Acclaim Overlocker Machine Elevate your serging experience with the Baby Lock Acclaim Overlocker Machine! Packed with cutting-edge features, this serger delivers top-tier performance and ease of use. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or just starting out, the Acclaim… read more

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Bernina L860

The Bernina L860 combines Swiss engineering with modern technology to create an overlocker that is both exceptionally precise and remarkably easy to use.

Its intuitive colour touchscreen allows you to select stitches quickly, while Guided Mode helps less experienced users achieve excellent results with confidence. As your skills develop, Expert Mode provides complete control over every setting.

The one-step air threader makes threading straightforward, while Bernina's outstanding stitch quality and beautifully balanced fabric handling inspire confidence across everything from delicate silks to heavier sweatshirt fabrics.

The L860 is an excellent choice for experienced sewists who appreciate precision and enjoy exploring the full capabilities of a premium machine.

Ideal for:

• Experienced garment makers
• Sewists who value precision
• Regular dressmakers
• Anyone looking for premium Swiss engineering

Bernina L860 Overlocker

£2,995.00

… read more

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The Ultimate Overlocker

Bernina L890

The Bernina L890 deserves a category of its own.

Rather than simply being an overlocker with a few additional features, it combines a premium overlocker and a professional coverstitch machine in one beautifully engineered package.

Switching between overlocking and coverstitching is straightforward, allowing you to create everything from beautifully finished garment seams to professional-looking T-shirt hems without needing two separate machines.

The large colour touchscreen offers both Guided Mode for step-by-step assistance and Expert

 Mode for complete creative control.

Air threading, automatic stitch recommendations and exceptional stitch quality make it one of the most advanced domestic overlockers available today.

For sewists who make clothing regularly, particularly stretch garments, it offers extraordinary versatility while reducing the need for additional equipment.

Ideal for:

• Passionate garment makers
• Advanced sewists
• Creative enthusiasts
• Anyone wanting one machine capable of overlocking and coverstitching
• Sewists looking for the ultimate sewing experience

Ready to Choose Your Overlocker?

Choosing an overlocker is an investment in your sewing, and the right machine can transform the way you work, whether you're making clothes, quilting, creating home décor or exploring new creative techniques.

Reading reviews and watching videos is a great place to start, but nothing compares to seeing the machines in action and trying them for yourself.

Throughout the year, our team demonstrates overlockers from Bernina, Janome and Baby Lock at many of the UK's leading sewing shows, giving you the opportunity to compare different machines, ask questions and experience features such as air threading, differential feed and coverstitching before making your decision.

If you can't make it to one of the shows, we'd love to welcome you to our showroom near Ripon in North Yorkshire. You're welcome to call in and browse, or if you're considering a particular machine, we recommend booking an appointment. This gives you dedicated time with one of our experienced sewing specialists to compare different models, try them for yourself and discuss which machine is best suited to your sewing.

Whether you're taking your first steps into overlocking or investing in a flagship machine, we're here to help you choose with confidence.

Our Overlocker Range